Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Seco

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t\R3\ J*c0Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth水利论文9t1~]}l7~0_d

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V~r_'P0statistical distribution; depth-integrated local momentum; second-order random waves; water depth; wave-number spectrum水利论文J_:|2HVQU{4L

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?7_suU._5z#{T01 .IntroductionThedepth integratedlocalmomentuminducedbyoceanwavesiswidelyusedinthestudyofoceanwavedynamics (Phillips,1977) ,numericalmodellingofoceanwaves (Komenetal.,1994) ,wavebreaking (BannerandTian ,1998) ,andsoon .However,mostoftheseresearchesassum

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