Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Seco

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%t$ZVOOFO0Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth水利论文!a2A(f%A H!vM*_

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statistical distribution; depth-integrated local momentum; second-order random waves; water depth; wave-number spectrum

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"dG)cjU S01 .IntroductionThedepth integratedlocalmomentuminducedbyoceanwavesiswidelyusedinthestudyofoceanwavedynamics (Phillips,1977) ,numericalmodellingofoceanwaves (Komenetal.,1994) ,wavebreaking (BannerandTian ,1998) ,andsoon .However,mostoftheseresearchesassum

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